A different start to the day today with some Scottish porridge, it’s yummy and very filling …

then up to Ampleforth to pick up Isaac for a day of exploring, our first stop is Helmsley, a lovely little market town with a cobbled square, and an awesome castle (noting that it is rare for me not to be impressed by one).

Helmsley castle sits over the town and was originally built in the early twelfth century by Walter Espec – ‘Walter the Woodpecker’, who was also responsible for the nearby Rievaulx Abbey which we visited later today.

Whilst it now lays in ruin the castle was modernised a few times the first time by Robert de Roos and his descendants, and then converted into living quarters and a luxurious mansion by the Manners family.

The castle faced its greatest challenge in the English Civil War period, it was held by Lord Fairfax (yep the same guy the pub we are staying at is named after) for King Charles, enduring a three month siege before Cromwell’s men blew up the Great Keep, slicing it in half with the explosion. The audio tour informed us that this violent end to the siege was a sign for the local people letting them know the strength of Cromwell’s forces – for my mind what a waste of a lovely building.

It is a great place to visit with lots of interesting facts and a great team working at the visitors centre, and as a bonus the sun was out.

After exploring for a couple of hours we walked down the hill to Helmsley proper for lunch for Isaac (he stayed in the colony last night so didn’t have a Fairfax breakfast) and a nice cup of Yorkshire tea. Then onto Rievaulx Abbey, which is described as one of the most impressive and most complete monastic remains anywhere in Britain.

The monastery’s third Abbot, St Aelred wrote of the abbey ” Everywhere peace, everywhere serenity, and a marvellous freedom from the tumult of the world”…. And I think he got it right!

The abbey whilst it is a ruin is quite spectacular in an understated way…. I should say upfront that I found the medieval minstrel whom I referred to as a “Sita guy” a little off putting but apart from that it was an awesome spot way off the beaten track. Fun fact for today dogs go everywhere, even tourist attractions. They were everywhere in restaurants, at castles and ruins, even shopping sorry Buddy and Coco if only we had known!

Back on the road we head to the Byland Abbey in the Ryedale district which is perched right on the side of the road, so no long meandering one way roads to navigate down – constantly waiting for a speeding range rover to come at you the other way. Once one of the greatest monasteries in England, Byland Abbey inspired the design of church buildings throughout the North.

The Abbey is an example of early gothic architecture and apparently inspired the design of the famous and very beautiful York Minster rose window. Fortunately there is a small Museum that displays colourful interpretation panels together with archaeological finds from the site, which help you envisage the lives if the monks that lived here.

Without knowing it today we travelled a path that many tourist books describe as a perfect day in this part of the country, for us it was simply what looks close of our map, as well as what the locals tell us are must sees.

Back to our home base(s) for a quick wash and then out for an Indian meal with Nick. Tonight we head for Desi Spice in the Helmsley area, for some korma, naan and a catchup. The gappies have been here before and it doesn’t disappoint!