Today had set itself up to be a great day for a couple of reasons, first and foremost because we have two nights in Dublin we didn’t have to pack up our bags… I know this may not seem like a big deal but even though it’s just the two of us it simply takes the pressure off in the morning and secondly today we will get to see the boys in action. So really not much more was needed to eclipse these two land mark events 😀. 

On the bus before 9.00am we headed to the famous Croke Park where all Gaelic Games are played. What on earth does this mean, an enquiring mind might ask.. Well it means that Hurling and Gaelic Football are played here and nothing else (and I understand the odd concert is here also). Knowing little to nothing about these sports I had expected to come away slightly more knowledgeable after spending a couple of hours at the Mecca for things Irish. The lovely Sinead (she has plenty of hair and isn’t quite as tortured as the Sinead we all know from the 80’s) had the huge responsibility for taking the supporters group around, and she did an awesome job. 

The thing about Ireland is that there is so much brutality in the country’s history I almost think that they are immune. Well, I guess that’s really not a fair statement but this dead seeded hatred and the barbarity of the past is so much a part of the psyche that as they speak I am not sure if they are aware of the effect that their history has on others. 

How on earth did I get on this tangent…well, as Sinead explained to us Gaelic Games are more than just football and hurling, they are a really important part of the Irish identity. The place that you are born is the team that you play for as an amateur, noting that there are no professional hurlers or Gaelic footballers. There is a trading system that is never used, and it is all about having pride in your place of origin – how cool is that.  I love the fact that you will play for the same team from the time that you are old enough to play until you retire and that you are playing for pride and not money.

Some facts about Croke Park:

• Sits 82,300 people and is the third largest stadium in Europe 
• Was originally opened in 1884
• In 1917 rubble from the Easter Rising as used to construct a grassy hill – Hill 16.
• Just three years later on Bloody Sunday, November 21, 1920 14 people were killed by British officers at the park as they attended a football game between Dublin and Tipperary. 
• The stadium has been redeveloped but no changes have been made to Hill 16 in honour of the men, women, children and the captain of the Tipperary captain who were killed on Bloody Sunday.
• In 2006 a deal was done with the Irish Football Association (soccer) and Irish Rugby to stage six nations games and soccer internationals at the stadium, even the English have now been able to play at the stadium which is surprising given the tension.
• In the post game lounge there is a Waterford crystal chandelier that has 32 green baubles that represent the 32 counties and 70 red baubles that represent the minutes in a game

The vibe of this place is extraordinary, as is the deep seeded pride in being Irish which really hadn’t made sense to me until today – is it because of the struggle to find their independence, or simply to survive either way it is a marvel to see and totally unexpected. 

From Croke Park we make our way to the Mecca for many, the Guinness storehouse. The Storehouse was built in 1904, and has been fermenting beer  since 1988. We have toured the Stonehouse before , enjoying a Guinness at the Gravity Bar (198 calories for a pint). I had forgotten between visits how cool the advertising was for Guinness, the Congo and I guess Africa more broadly make a lot of of it and the campaigns in these areas are extraordinarily engaging. 

After we pour ourselves out of the Guinness Storehouse, back into gale force winds and almost horizontal rain we make our way to Lucan Sarfield GAA club where the boys are playing their first games, I must say I am a little bit nervous for Isaac given his lack of experience with Gaelic footy and more broadly AFL. Having spoken with lots of the supporters it appears that the majority of the boys touring have representative experience, so I just hope that his rugby and soccer skills hold him in reasonable stead. As the weather has been so bad, and an earlier game had been scheduled which had torn up the field a bit, the boys are divided into 3 teams and play on Astro turf. It is hard to describe the sound of the wind, it is incredibly loud and very very strong. Isaac and James are playing in the second team ( the teams have been divided by age), and as a group they look surprisingly confident, ah to be a 16 year old! (Isaac is number 32 – photos courtesy of Steve).

Following the game we headed to the club house, which was fabulous and full to brink of the families who were billeting the kids and locals. A great night for Baileys and Jameson’s, complemented by homemade sandwiches and curry ( courtesy of the mums). A presentation of cups with the Aussie boys winning two of the three games, a local Irish dancer and a group of kids playing music. A wonderful night with unbelievable hospitaility 😀, and relief that the first of the games is now behind us.