Today we are bound for another seaside town this time the infamous Whitby. The books tell us that this is a classy little inlet that as well as having a very famous Abbey, is famous for James Cook and for Bram Stokers Dracula.
On our first day of touring we purchased a card that allows us entry into English Heritage properties around the country, and so many of our visits coincide with places on the map they have given us. For me this is perfect, Isaac of course isn’t quite so convinced.
The first stop today is the Mount Grace Priory and House. As you walk to the entrance of this place you feel like you are entering a retreat or somewhere that artists would come to paint or write the great Australian/English novel. It is beautiful, quiet and very still, except for the occasional bird. I am smitten and to be honest could have spent the rest of the day here.
Entrance to the priory is via 13th-century manor house containing a lovely exhibition and two newly restored arts and crafts.The attic is currently being loving restored by volunteers.
In the 1500’s King Henry the VIII dissolved all of the monasteries throughout the country and so along with the monastery the manor house fell into disrepair, and probably lay unattended for a couple of centuries until it was purchased as a guest retreat by Sir Isaac Lowthian Bell in the 1800’s. He invested quite a bit of money in the house, and eventually moved into it with his family when he lost his fortune. His daughter was Gertrude Bell , whom I understand will soon be played by Nicole Kidman in a movie. Gertrude sounds like something else she travelled the world independently, working as a diplomat and a spy…and word has it that she had toy boys around the world to look after her ! I know it appears that I know quite a bit about the history of this place and the family and this is as the result of a very nice and chatty lady I met whilst in the exhibition.
Out the back of the manor house and within the ruin is a 14th century Carthusian priory a Monk’s Cell showing ‘the world without… and the world within’ is set up, it is one of the original individual cells. It reflects the isolation of the monks who lived as hermits, each occupying his own cell and coming together in the chapel only for the nocturnal liturgical hours, Sundays and feast-days. They were a silent order, and their diet was strictly vegetarian – apart from the fact that I am a girl, I certainly wouldn’t have lasted long.
Driving into Whitby is very different than the entrance into Scarborough and whilst it isn’t like driving into an Australian Coastal town, you can feel the romance of the place. Like many of the English towns that we are visiting the ancient ruins of the castle dominates the space, with the castle peering down on the masses and keeping an eye on the general populous.
Before getting up close and personal with the abbey you can’t help but notice the Captain James Cook connection. There is a Captain Cook Memorial Museum set in the house that was occupied by a ship owner that Cook was an apprentice for, as well a monument that overlooks the wharf.
There is also the well publicised Bram Stoker connection with “Dracula” being penned here in a B&B way back in 1897. There is a huge goth community in Whitby, lots of black hair and smudged mascara…
For us though of course there is the Whitby Abbey, what is left on site dates back to the 11th century it is very dramatic – you can just imagine it on a harsh English night with the waves crashing far below. You can reach the abbey and St Mary’s church (famous in Dracula) by climbing 199 steps..at the top as well as reaching the abbey and church, you will also find the YHA hostel.
Interestingly the first Monastery founded here was in AD 657 and was for men and women, who lived separately (really?), and was run by a woman – the royal princess Abbess Hild. There is also an impressive visitors centre attached which has some excavated finds dating back to its very beginnings.
Whilst over the years there was significant decline in the monastery, sadly parts of the church collapsed during storms in the early 1900’s and then in 1914 was shelled by German naval force.
Home to Ampleforth to discover that Nick was playing cricket in a staff versus students game, on the second eleven oval – what a gorgeous setting. The staff including Nick won the game by 70 runs, and then headed down to the Fairfax Arms for dinner – a lovely way to spend our last night in this sleepy little hollow.









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